Shrimp Bisque

Ingredients

• 3 pounds shell-on, tail-on shrimp, divided
• ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided
• 4 bay leaves, divided
• 4 sprigs parsley
• 4 sprigs thyme
• 2 large carrots, peeled, chopped
• 3 celery stalks, chopped
• ½ large onion, chopped
• 1 leek, white and pale green parts only, chopped
• 1 shallot, chopped
• Kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon tomato paste
• ¼ cup cognac
• 3 tablespoons Carolina Gold or other long-grain white rice
• ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
• ¼ cup heavy cream
• ½ small butternut squash, cut into ¾-inch pieces
• 2 15-ounce cans navy beans, rinsed
• Chopped chives and lemon wedges (for serving)

Steps

1. Use a food processor to pulse 1½ lb. shrimp, keeping their shells and tails on, into a paste resembling ground meat.
2. Heat a large pot over medium-high and melt ¼ cup butter in it. Add the shrimp paste and cook for 8–10 minutes, breaking it apart with a spoon, until browned. Put in 2 bay leaves and 3 qt. water, bring to a simmer and cook for 40 minutes. Pour the shrimp stock through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl, pressing the solids to get out as much liquid as possible. Throw away the solids and wipe the pot clean.
3. Use kitchen twine to tie the parsley, thyme and remaining 2 bay leaves into a bundle, and put it aside. In the same pot over medium-high heat, melt the remaining ¼ cup butter. Add carrots, celery, onion, leek and shallot, seasoning generously with salt. Stir occasionally and cook for 10–12 minutes, until golden brown. Stir in the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, until a little darker. Pour in the cognac and stir as it cooks for 2–3 minutes, until the liquid evaporates. Add the shrimp stock, rice, cayenne and reserved herb bundle. Simmer for 20–25 minutes, until the rice is tender, then add the cream and cook for 5 minutes longer. Lift out the herb bundle and discard it.
4. Blend the soup and vegetables in 2 batches to a smooth, creamy purée. Put it back in the pot and bring it to a simmer over medium-low heat. Add the squash and cook for about 10 minutes, just until tender.
5. In the meantime, peel and devein the remaining 1½ lb. shrimp. Put them and the beans into the pot and bring it to a simmer only long enough to warm through. Take the pot off the heat, season with salt and leave the bisque for 5 minutes so the shrimp cook through.
6. Ladle the bisque into bowls, scatter chives on top, and offer lemon wedges to squeeze over it.